580 models found

Thingiverse Import
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cory_Doctorowhttp://craphound.com/http://www.boingboing.net/-Part of a ongoing project scanning the heads of bloggers, artists, DIYers, makers, musicians, hackers and anybody else we think is notable.Made with a Polhemus 3d scanner at MakerBot. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9272 Original creator: Friends

Thingiverse Import
REVISED: Larger sides for the bolts, more accurate with the holes, but smaller holes.I have bragged on my ToM so much that it was bound to get my co-worker's request for his missing wrist joint for the right hand on his puppets. (Bre may be interested in this.) My co-worker has always just used the left-handed wrist joint, but this makes the right hand slightly cattywhompus. This thing #7716 should fix him up.UPDATE: New picture shows painted thing #7716 in place and working beautifully. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7716 Original creator: elspeth

Thingiverse Import
With the colder weather here, I needed a way to attach some lexan to my makerbot to keep some of the heat in.Here are some simple little clips I made that slide onto the plywood and will hold a piece of plexi or lexan.You can probably get away with using 3 per side but I ended up using 6.The scad file is easily modified to adjust the thickness of the wood or the plastic.It's currently set up for a plastic panel that is about 2.5mm thick (3/32" maybe?)It's just what I had laying around in my basement. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14727 Original creator: jag

Thingiverse Import
After using my new Z-stage ( http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10478 ) for a while, I found one annoying problem: there is no easy way to adjust the position manually. With the original Cupcake stage, you just pull on the timing belt. Or install a crank on one of the threaded rods. With 10478, the only way is to turn the threaded rod directly, getting oily fingers in the process.This thing is an auxiliary stepper controller, which can be inserted between the printer's motherboard and stepper drivers. It's based on an ATTYNY44 processor and very few additional parts.Of course you can use this device for any other axis as well, including extruder. Or simply use it as a stepper tester - the input can be left open.There are two buttons, 'up' and 'down'. If you leave them alone, the device passes the motherboard signals through. That is, you can print as normal.When you press either of the buttons, the device takes over and controls the stepper directly. This way, you can make adjustments even during a print.'up' moves the stepper one way, 'down' the other.After holding a button for 2 seconds the speed is doubled.Pushing and holding both buttons for 2 seconds enters setup mode (LED flashes).-- Repeatedly pushing 'up' increases speed-- Repeatedly pushing 'down' decreases speed-- Pushing both buttons saves new speed settingThe source code is in zcrank.c - It uses just under 2K of flash memory. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:11571 Original creator: Iwo

Thingiverse Import
This is a http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kort_nozzle for a boat or submersible propeller. The purpose of this is to increase the thrust at low speeds. These are commonly used in commercial ROVs.The profile is Maritime Research Institute Netherlands (MARIN) No. 37, which sacrifices some forwards thrust for better backwards thrust. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:10775 Original creator: ttsalo

Thingiverse Import
I added the Foot http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3088 from freeradicalx to the bottom of the mini mendel frame vertex.http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1745Im building a mini mendel, but didnt want all the electronics and stuff to be directly under the bed.Now it will stand on its own 4 feet. And guard over my desk with honor.I included a left and right hand version, and teh blender file i used to make it. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3275 Original creator: BLNorris

Thingiverse Import
This is a battery holder for one cell lipo batteries used in RC Vehicles.These batteries are used in Blade MCX, Blade MsR, Parkzone micro P-51, Sukhoi and various other Horizon Hobby Products.It is a challenge knowing what batteries are charged and those that are not.You simply put the charged ones in the rectangular slots and the ones that need to be charged in the center. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1417 Original creator: PrintTo3D

Thingiverse Import
Hello World,a bit premature publishing of this model too, but i thought that someone might like to give this a go..After making the image i have realized that i need to work out some bugs on the legs in order to have them bendable..All comments are more than wellcome! --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:15307 Original creator: supermange

Thingiverse Import
I found this in the Google Sketchup Warehouse. I converted it to .stl but I think more could be done here for a really neat print. It needs to be bigger so perhaps trimming the track a bit would help. My latest attempt to print it raftless and without support was far from perfect. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9708 Original creator: Thaed

Thingiverse Import
http://www.cliffevans.net/-Part of a ongoing project scanning the heads of bloggers, artists, DIYers, makers, musicians, hackers and anybody else we think is notable.Made with a Polhemus 3d scanner at MakerBot. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:9271 Original creator: Friends

Thingiverse Import
Something to put your candles in. Public domain. :) --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7728 Original creator: relet

Thingiverse Import
Real leadscrews are a great upgrade for RepRap printers because threaded rods can be bent, come with burrs, and really aren't designed for the kind of motion that they're used for. This Thing is a pair of X-ends that hold leadscrew nuts. I've also redesigned the bearing column to simplify the design and properly support press-fit Igus bushings (which you can get at http://techpaladin.com), since they were really designed to fit into holes. If you find the holes too small to fit your bushings, you may need to ream or dremel them a bit.The leadscrews and nuts that these X-ends are designed for can be ordered from Misumi.Leadscrew nuts: Misumi part number MTSKR8.Leadscrews: Misumi part number MTSR8-[length in millimeters]Prusa mendels require two units of MTSR8-200.MendelMax printers require two units of MTSR8-350 (360 if using the optional thrust bearing)I've uploaded the .scad files that I modified to make these parts. They may have additional dependencies, but you should be able to grab those from Josef Prusa's github at https://github.com/prusajr/PrusaMendel/tree/master/sourceIf you use Igus bushings, you may be interested in my Igus bushing-compatible Y-carriage bushing holders:thingiverse.com/thing:14593…And X-carriage:http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14530Update 01/02/12: Re-uploaded files with more correct hole diameters and shallower pressure pads in the X rod tunnels to make push-fit assembly less likely to crack the parts. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14494 Original creator: Pointedstick