Browse Models
580 models found
Low poly klein bottle mk2
Thingiverse Import
Just 11 faces and parametric.Updatekl bttl mk2.stl slices with one error (at least for me) which adds a layer closing the bottle neck at the top of the inner wall... also, RepG was reporting 20cc! of material neededAdded kl_bttl_mk2 2.stl: radius 30, height 60, walls 1.1mm, 7cc & no slicing error. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12474 Original creator: aubenc
00PD
klein bottle
openscad
openscad klein bottle
Borromean Rings (deformed)
Thingiverse Import
Just a quick hack to have a physical model.http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Borromean_rings --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:14852 Original creator: mechadense
00PD
borromean
Public Chair (always under construction)
Thingiverse Import
The chair consist out of 2x3 printed elements plus tubes with a diameter of 12mm (at the moment i use cheap heating tubes, but i guess all kinds of tubes are ok). The design of the chair is also not fixed as the 3D version of the chair is already somewhat rounder. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4958 Original creator: tomtjonaloi
00PD
Monolith from 2001
Thingiverse Import
Cuboid with proportions of 1:4:9 --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4321 Original creator: owenscenic
00PD
2001
3d
Mold for 608 pulley
Thingiverse Import
608 pulley overhang is not to complex molding problem it can easly be solved i three parts. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:886 Original creator: Torleif
00PD
608
Boomerang Thing 1
Thingiverse Import
This is a three bladed boomerang. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2217 Original creator: tc_fea
00PD
3d
boomerang
CD Box
Thingiverse Import
Box to store multiple CDs.Good cutPS: Wood or PMMA - 3mm --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5040 Original creator: souriceaux06
00PD
box
cd
Turbine/Impeller for Shark 18v Cordless
Thingiverse Import
Added a toroidal radial taper to the design, so that it would fit our little hand-held vacuum. Basically, it's taller in the middle than on the edges.The scad is configured to print part of a hand-held vacuum, replacing an injection-molded part that blew apart under use. Also added variables to make the center hollow, which seems to improve suction, and of course sized it up for the vac in question, a Shark 18v Cordless. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:12845 Original creator: paenian
00PD
Music Box Cylinder
Thingiverse Import
Taking a cue from all of the lovely gears appearing on thingiverse recently, I sat down with openSCAD and figured out once and for all how to use rotate and translate together to make gears.The result is a reasonably typical music box cylinder with adjustable tooth and braille count. This version is probably not well formed for MakerBots, but could be sintered. I have an idea for a MakerBot version, but it's running late ;)\todo: Accompanying worm gear (or spring, clutch, drive gear assembly?)CombBase/Box --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1348 Original creator: failrate
00PD
Acorn Nuts, 3/8 & 1/2
Thingiverse Import
So you go into the hardware store and you look around at all the cool things that used to cost so much before you had a 3D printer. This is one of the most useful items I found that we can make. In the store they can cost between $.75-$4 for a nylon version, depending on the size of the nut. I took it upon myself to CAD up some to make ABS nuts. These are real handy when you are creating a Mendel and don't want to hurt yourself on the bolt heads. They are in the US standard sizes, since this is the cheapest materials I have available to me right now. I encourage others to make metric versions. --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6033 Original creator: flintols
00PD
Whuzzat? (Wearable bracelet and more!)
Thingiverse Import
(taken from my blog post: http://matz-make.posterous.com/whuzzat)It's funny how something that started out as a simple toy replacement turned into... Whuzzat? My son loves Ben 10, and has that Omnitrix toy that's a huge watch that's impossible for a kid to put on himself. My goal was to create something that made him feel sort of like Ben Tennison, but also something he could put on himself. Thus, I came up with this design.I made it with OpenSCAD because I wasn't sure if I would get the dimensions correct, or if I'd need to make small changes to make the wristband fit more comfortably. I modeled it in such a way that I could specify the wrist width and thickness, since these are pretty easy measurements to take. Then of course, you would want to specify the thickness of the band, as well as its length. There also needs to be an opening on one side in order to put on the band. With those parameters, I created Whuzzat.By now you're probably wondering how a Ben 10 wannabe toy could be called something like Whuzzat. Well, when I thought about this design, it was more than just a simple Omnitrix. It was also a simple bracelet that you can print for your daughter. Using tricks from Tony Buser's parametric nametag (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2055), or the the OpenSCAD code for my Parametric Cup Name Tag (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5309), you can put a name on the bracelet!My wife uses a hook in the closet to hold wet towels on a hanger if there isn't enough room on a towel bar. Well, by modifying the parameters for the Whuzzat, you can have one, too!How about Halloween decorations? Narrow the "wrist thickness", lengthen the "wrist width", thicken the band, and narrow the "opening width", then print a bunch of Whuzzats in black, and you have a chain!What about cable organization? Why buy an expensive cable track, when you can print a few Whuzzats that fit inside of each other? Screw the smaller one to your desk, then snap the larger one over it!It's amazing how such a simple design can be used in so many different ways. Can you think of any others? If so, please post your derivatives! --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5706 Original creator: dmatsumoto
Perfboard Build Surface
Thingiverse Import
Hate warping and don't have a heated build platform‽ No worries, a few coins in perfboard will have you flat in no time.These are instructions for an UP!, but most tips should apply to a Cupcake too! YMMV.Taken from http://pp3dp.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=96&start=10#p1792, here's all you need to know about warp-free printing on the cheap!"The perfboard trick is baller! Big UP!s rross! I haven't had any warping since I started printing on it and I'm going deep and wide and tall. Of course I've done the platform leveling and nozzle height adjustments, but until I printed on perfboard, I'd get some warping on wide, long or thick prints. If you can't find copper plated perfboard, no worries; it's the holes, not the copper, that does the trick.A few tips if you decide to do this:READJUST NOZZLE HEIGHT!!! Since you're adding ~1.5mm to the top of the platform, your current height will cause the nozzle to meet the perfboard in an unsightly way.REMOVE! Remove the platform from the printer before attempting to dislodge the print from the perfboard. The print sticks well and you don't want to subject your printer to the forces necessary to to unstick it.BIAS! Cut the board on an angle so that the perfs are not parallel to the printer's X and Y axes. I belatedly noticed that rross cut his on a bias; my utility knife scoring wasn't spot on, so it's all good. Yours will be better if you plan for this.TAPE WELL! Ensure that the tape - blue painter's tape works great - sufficiently wraps around the top and bottom of the platform. On my first print, I wrapped the tape miserly on the perfboard and while printing, one of the strips detached. No prints suffered during this episode.COOL! Definitely allow the platform to cool a few minutes before removing the print. The plastic in the holes contracts and makes removal easier.DON'T PREHEAT! One of the bonuses of printing on perfboard is that the platform doesn't need preheating. This saves time, effort and watts.OVERLAP! When printing multiple models, I overlap the rafts a bit so that all rafts are connected. This ensures that raft areas that fall outside the perfs are still secured by those that do (maybe less of any issue if you cut the board on a bias).LED! Most of the plastic comes out of the holes, but to remove the bits that remain, LED leads work great (we all have the odd LED laying about, yes?)!" --- Imported from Thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5428 Original creator: TeamTeamUSA